Lolly & Cooks
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Location:
At the entrance to George's St Arcade
Visited:
over 3 years ago
Reviewed by:
Martin McKenna
Rating:
Lolly and Cooks is a tiny sandwich joint at the entrance to the George’s St Arcade. Laragh Lu was the previous name, and although the two incarnations are similar, they are not connected. (You can find Laragh Lu pesto, hummus and so on in supermarkets like Superquinn now, and they’re very good).
A toasted ciabatta, with ham, cheddar and mustard is a not-exactly for-free €5.90. Mine, with goat’s cheese, basil pesto and sun-dried tomatoes was an example of getting ingredients right. The cheese was tangy, fruity and fresh; the pesto verdant and lively and the tomatoes tender and flavoursome. It reminded how often simple ingredients like these fail miserably in Dublin’s sandwiches.
A “savage roll”, that’s a sausage roll to me and you (€3.50) was mottled with sweet wholegrain mustard, and some difficult-to-identify other ingredients; apples and onions may well have featured. These are on the scale of Avoca’s chunky sausage rolls, but are a slightly different take on the idea. Loose, sweet and tangy. If anything, the sausage rolls are a little ‘samey’ after a few munches and given their decent size, get a little overwhelming. But that’s par for the course with the kind of gutsy food that they are.
Sandwiches on granary are €4.50. Soup was reported by a bystander to be ‘excellent’. There’s a svelte shelf along the side that you can perch against with your sambo though things feel distinctly al fresco so close to the entrance to the arcade. Lolly and Cooks offer an array of very cute cupcakes aswell.
All told, this is a real little gem in Dublin. They’ve been there in various forms for years and they deserve to be there for years to come.
